Oct 30

Boys’ Knits

By AnnK 3 Comments

 
Another of my designer friends has published a lovely book of knitting patterns. This one is ‘Boys’ Knits’ by the sweet and lovely Katya Frankel. I’ve never met Katya in real life, yet I know I would love her if I did, she has such a kind and gentle online presence.
 
I’ve been aware of Katya for some years now as she has frequently had designs featured in British knitting magazines that I have bought. She also regularly designs for Interweave. I like her very straightforward design style, which results in an abundance of very comfortable looking everyday wear.
 
This style is particularly evident in the designs in Boys’ Knits, 16 cosy hoodies, jumpers and gilets, all with a very casual feel perfectly suited to the rough and tumble lives of active lads. This is eloquently communicated in the happy scenes of boys at play that Katya has so wonderfully captured in her excellent photography in the book.
 
 
 
 
Katya clearly ‘gets’ boys. I know during the shoot for Boys’ Knits she had great fun with the models, who at one point tried to teach her a sliding tackle. Kudos!
 
I’ve shown my 2 youngest boys the book and asked them to pick out their favourite jumper. They both chose Dax, though Toby said he also loves the ‘nerdy glasses’ on the cover pic! When I questioned them about it, Tom admitted he likes Dax mostly because of the colour, and also because of the cable running down the arm. Basically my boys aren’t great at explaining their choices, but they both clearly love Dax! Maybe it’s time I indulged my wish to knit something for them?
 
 
As I perused my review copy of Katya’s book, I was delighted to realise that the garments have almost entirely seamless constructions. Knitting patterns for boys are a rarity in themselves, and nearly all those I have come across are knitted flat. So, to be presented with a whole book of seamless designs for boys was very exciting! I suddenly felt even more attracted to the lovely pieces she has produced.
 

As usual for my posts about works by fellow designers I posed a few questions to Katya that came up for me as I read her lovely book. Here are the questions and Katya’s answers:

What sizing resources do you use for designing garments for children?

The measurements’ chart I used was largely based on these sources:

ASTM standards tables of boys measurements

Sweater Design in Plain English by Maggie Righetti

Metric pattern cutting for children’s wear and baby wear by Winifred Aldrich

and a Craft Yarn Council standards

Because I have designed boys’ patterns before starting working on Boys’ Knits, I already had a measurement charts compiled, tt was just a matter of reviewing it. We also run a little survey asking for boys’ key measurements to support the charts and see how those distribute within size ranges.

How do you decide your ease scheme (how much ease to add where)?

Chest circumference was used as the main base measurement for drafting patterns, much like it is used to draft adult knitwear. And with kids always being on the move, I like boys’ sweater to have some positive ease built in, both for comfortable wearing and growth. To decide how much ease exactly to add, I always turn to yarn weight and texture of knitted fabric. DK and some finer Worsted weight sweaters need a little less ease and start with about 2 inches, but heavily cabled or chunky knits, like Deckard or Buster for example, go up to about 4 or 5 inches at the chest on average.

How did you learn and develop the seamless constructions you use?

Seamless construction is probably my favourite one and I use it often in my designs. I learnt to draft patterns as flat blocks originally, with set in sleeves and fitted shoulders, but about 6–7 years ago I was bitten by the seamless-knitting bug and since then I worked on dozens of seamless sweaters. Sweaters with different yoke constructions, worked either from the top down or from the bottom up, with set-in sleeves, raglan, saddle shoulders, round yokes, the lot. I prefer working from the bottom up because it allows me to play with decrease rates through the yoke part and create well defined back widths that I adore on men’s and boys’ sweaters. I am sure it’s all due to the way I originally drafted sleeve caps (years ago), slimmer at the front of the body and wider at the back, more tailored if you like.

Many thanks to Katya for inviting me to be part of the blog tour for Boys’ Knits!

You can purchase Boys’ Knits in print or digital formats from Cooperative Press. Details here.

 

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Comments

3 Responses to “Boys’ Knits”

  1. Wool Shops Says:
    December 21st, 2012 at 7:48 am

    I am very happy to know about knitting patterns. I will definitely share this post with my friends.

  2. Charlotte Kaae Says:
    February 16th, 2013 at 7:56 am

    Small world.

    How are tings?

    Hugs Kaae

  3. AnnK Says:
    February 16th, 2013 at 8:09 am

    Things are great Kaae! I’ve got a new knee, so am mobile again, looking forward to some long walks with the family this year. Also, i’m now working on my 4th book! I spied you in one of the Craftsy classes I’ve signed up for btw. :)

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