As usual for my posts about works by fellow designers I posed a few questions to Katya that came up for me as I read her lovely book. Here are the questions and Katya’s answers:
What sizing resources do you use for designing garments for children?
The measurements’ chart I used was largely based on these sources:
ASTM standards tables of boys measurements
Sweater Design in Plain English by Maggie Righetti
Metric pattern cutting for children’s wear and baby wear by Winifred Aldrich
and a Craft Yarn Council standards
Because I have designed boys’ patterns before starting working on Boys’ Knits, I already had a measurement charts compiled, tt was just a matter of reviewing it. We also run a little survey asking for boys’ key measurements to support the charts and see how those distribute within size ranges.
How do you decide your ease scheme (how much ease to add where)?
Chest circumference was used as the main base measurement for drafting patterns, much like it is used to draft adult knitwear. And with kids always being on the move, I like boys’ sweater to have some positive ease built in, both for comfortable wearing and growth. To decide how much ease exactly to add, I always turn to yarn weight and texture of knitted fabric. DK and some finer Worsted weight sweaters need a little less ease and start with about 2 inches, but heavily cabled or chunky knits, like Deckard or Buster for example, go up to about 4 or 5 inches at the chest on average.
How did you learn and develop the seamless constructions you use?
Seamless construction is probably my favourite one and I use it often in my designs. I learnt to draft patterns as flat blocks originally, with set in sleeves and fitted shoulders, but about 6–7 years ago I was bitten by the seamless-knitting bug and since then I worked on dozens of seamless sweaters. Sweaters with different yoke constructions, worked either from the top down or from the bottom up, with set-in sleeves, raglan, saddle shoulders, round yokes, the lot. I prefer working from the bottom up because it allows me to play with decrease rates through the yoke part and create well defined back widths that I adore on men’s and boys’ sweaters. I am sure it’s all due to the way I originally drafted sleeve caps (years ago), slimmer at the front of the body and wider at the back, more tailored if you like.
Many thanks to Katya for inviting me to be part of the blog tour for Boys’ Knits!
You can purchase Boys’ Knits in print or digital formats from Cooperative Press. Details here.
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